
This is not a falling-tree problem — a sun-scalded young tree is not going to hurt anyone. The clock is seasonal: the tree closes ground on the wound each summer, and every unprotected winter re-exposes it to the same conditions and typically widens the strip. Two or three consecutive winters without protection is what converts a survivable scar into a girdle. The thing that changes fastest while you wait is insect entry — flatheaded appletree borer and relatives find sun-scalded trunks reliably, and once they are working the dead margin they will chew into live tissue and finish the girdling faster than the cold would have.
Often, if the dead strip covers less than about a third of the circumference and the tree is otherwise healthy — it will close the wound itself. Do not cut the bark back with a knife to clean the wound, do not apply sealer, and do not push fertilizer at it; water through summer drought, keep it mulched, and give it time. Prune out branches that have died back above the scald. It is not savable when the scald has girdled the trunk, when borer holes and frass appear in the dead face, or when the trunk sounds hollow — a young tree that far gone is cheaper to replace than to nurse. Prevention is the real product: light-colored crepe tree wrap or white latex trunk paint applied in late fall and removed in spring, for the first few years after planting only. Wrap left on year-round holds moisture against the bark and causes its own damage.