
Watch — this is a years-long observation, and the way to do it is to make the lean measurable instead of remembered. Drive a stake at the base, sight the trunk against a fixed vertical from a marked standing spot, and photograph it from that same spot each spring. A lean that has not moved in a decade is the strongest reassurance available. Escalate to same-day if you find fresh soil cracking or a raised mound on the tension side, roots visibly lifting, a lean that increased after a storm or a saturated spell, or fungal conks at the base — lean plus root decay is a materially more serious combination than either finding alone.
Most old corrected leans are retained with no work at all, and the correct outcome of the call is often an inspection note and nothing else. Where the lean is real but the tree is worth keeping, the levers are crown reduction to cut weight and sail area on the leaning side, and removing dead or overextended mass out on that side. What does not work and should be refused: attempting to straighten or cable a mature leaning tree upright, and 'counterbalancing' by pruning the opposite side, which strips out the wood that is resisting the load. Guying is for newly planted or freshly tipped trees, not for a forty-year lean.