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Can lightning hit my tree — is it going to die, and is it safe to be under? be fixed without removing the tree?

Sometimes, and the correct sequence is make it safe now, decide later. Same-week work is removal of hanging and cracked limbs and loose bark that could fall, done by a climber rather than off a ladder. Then wait — a full growing season, ideally two — before deciding on removal, because a tree that pushes a normal flush the next spring and holds it through August has a real chance, while one that leafs out weakly, drops early, or shows upper-crown dieback is declining. Support during that window is water in drought and mulch, not fertilizer, which forces growth the tree cannot sustain. Remove without waiting when the trunk is split open, when a major stem is cracked through, or when the tree stands over a house or play area and cannot be reduced to a safe condition. Lightning protection systems — a copper conductor run from the crown to a ground rod, installed to the ANSI A300 standard — are a legitimate option for high-value trees, but they are preventive, not a treatment for a tree already struck.

How long you have to decide

The hazard from loose bark and cracked limbs is immediate — days, not weeks — and it does not wait for the next storm; wind on a hot afternoon will bring pieces down. The tree's fate, by contrast, plays out over one to three years. While you wait, the wound face dries and checks open further, decay fungi colonize the exposed wood, and secondary attackers move in on a stressed host — bark beetles in conifers, borers in hardwoods. That is why the survival call belongs at the end of a season rather than the start: the strike itself rarely kills outright, the two summers of stress that follow do.

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