
Prune right after bloom in May, before the leaves fully expand — you can still read the structure, you are not cutting off next spring's flowers, and dormant cuts are awkward on a tree that branches this low and irregularly. The species-specific trap is sanitation: Botryosphaeria canker is redbud's worst problem, so every dieback cut has to land well below the sunken, cracked, discolored bark and into clean wood, and the saw gets disinfected between cuts or you spread it yourself.
Redbud decline is branch-by-branch rather than whole-tree — one limb wilts and browns in midsummer with the dead leaves hanging on, and there is a sunken, cracked, blackened canker where it meets live wood. Stress is leaf scorch or early yellowing in an August drought on a tree that flowers and leafs out fine the next April; dying is a second and third limb going the same way in consecutive years, driven by Botryosphaeria canker or verticillium wilt with brown streaking in the sapwood — neither responds to fungicide, so the honest conversation is staged removal, not treatment.