
Small enough that it rarely threatens property, but structurally weak in the way multi-stemmed ornamentals are: saucer magnolias are typically grown with three or more codominant stems off the base, and included bark in those unions splits under ice load. The branch wood is brittle and the fat overwintering flower buds sit right at the tips, so ice loads the very ends of the most flexible wood — and a stem that splits at the base is generally not repairable and takes a third of the tree with it.
Prune right after bloom in late spring and keep it light — cut in late winter or early spring and it bleeds sap heavily, cut in early fall and the new growth will not harden before frost. The species trap is that magnolias compartmentalize wounds poorly and set next spring's flower buds during summer, so a tidy-up pruning in July or August removes the entire following bloom and opens wounds that never properly close.